Non-vegIndian
Biryani · Indian
Mutton Biryani
A classic mutton biryani recipe: bone-in goat slow-cooked in a spiced yogurt masala, layered with saffron basmati rice and steamed on the stovetop.
By The JollyRoses Kitchen · Updated
- Prep
- 30 min
- Cook
- 3 hr 10 min
- Total
- 5 hr 40 min
- Serves
- 6
Non-veg Medium Main Course Includes 2 hr hands-off
In India, "mutton" usually means goat meat, and that is what this recipe uses: bone-in goat, the kind sold at Indian, Pakistani and halal butchers. (In the UK and Australia, mutton means meat from a mature sheep, which also works here.)
This is the slow, classic stovetop method. The goat is marinated, then simmered in the masala until completely tender before par-boiled basmati is layered on top and the pot is sealed for a final steam.
Why this recipe works
- Bone-in goat simmered low and slow gives a rich, deeply flavored masala that soaks into the bottom layer of rice.
- The meat is fully tender before layering, so there is no guessing whether it will cook through under the rice.
- A heavy pot, a tight seal and a griddle under the pot keep the final steam gentle and the bottom from scorching.
Mutton Biryani recipe
By The JollyRoses Kitchen · 5 hr 40 min total · Medium
Ingredients
Servings
For the mutton marinade
For the masala
For the rice and layering
Equipment
- Large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven (5–7 quart) with a tight lid
- Large saucepan for boiling rice
- Colander
- Aluminum foil (to seal the lid)
- Flat griddle or cast-iron pan (heat diffuser for the final steam)
Instructions
-
Marinate the mutton
In a large bowl mix the yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, chili powder, turmeric, coriander, garam masala, salt and papaya paste (if using). Add the goat and coat every piece. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to overnight. If you use papaya paste, keep the marinade to about 2–4 hours; left longer, the papaya can make the meat mushy.
-
Fry the onions
Heat the oil in the heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring often, until deep golden brown, 15–20 minutes, lowering the heat as they darken. Lift out half of the onions onto a paper towel for layering; leave the rest in the pot.
-
Build the masala
Add the bay leaf, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and peppercorns to the pot and stir for 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and green chilies and cook until the tomatoes break down, 5–6 minutes.
-
Slow-cook the mutton
Add the goat with all of its marinade. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring, for 8–10 minutes until the meat loses its raw color and the masala thickens. Pour in the hot water, bring to a simmer, then cover and cook on low for 90–120 minutes, stirring every 20 minutes and adding a splash of hot water if it starts to stick. The mutton is ready when the meat pulls easily from the bone.
-
Reduce and soak the rice
About 40 minutes before the mutton is done, rinse and soak the rice for 30 minutes and stir the saffron into the warm milk. Once the meat is tender, uncover and simmer for 5–8 minutes until the masala is thick and oil shows at the edges. Stir in half the mint and cilantro, taste for salt and turn off the heat.
-
Par-boil the rice
Bring the 12 cups of water to a rolling boil with the salt, bay leaf and shahi jeera. Drain the soaked rice and add it. Boil uncovered for 5–6 minutes, until about 70% cooked: long and firm, with a small white core when pressed. Drain immediately.
-
Layer and seal
Spread the rice evenly over the mutton masala without pressing it down. Scatter the reserved fried onions and the remaining mint and cilantro on top, drizzle the saffron milk in streaks and pour the melted ghee around the surface. Cover tightly with foil and press the lid on firmly.
-
Steam (dum), rest and serve
Cook over medium heat for 3–4 minutes until you hear sizzling, then set the pot on a flat griddle over the lowest heat and steam for 25 minutes. Turn off the heat and rest, sealed, for 10 minutes. Serve by scooping down vertically so each plate gets rice and mutton.
Tips for the best mutton biryani
- Ask the butcher for a curry cut with a mix of shoulder and leg on the bone. The bones give the masala body and flavor.
- Goat varies a lot in toughness. Go by texture, not the clock: keep simmering until the meat slides off the bone easily.
- Stir the pot every 20 minutes during the slow cook and scrape the bottom, adding a little hot water whenever it starts to catch.
- Reduce the masala until thick before layering. Extra liquid will make the bottom rice soggy.
- If you're short on time, the same masala can be cooked in a pressure cooker; see our goat biryani recipe for that faster method.
Substitutions
GoatBone-in lamb or mature sheep (mutton in the UK/Australian sense); lamb usually becomes tender 15–30 minutes sooner.
Raw papaya pasteLeave it out and marinate overnight instead; the longer marinade helps tenderize the meat.
Homemade fried onionsStore-bought crispy fried onions for layering, but still brown one onion in the pot for the masala.
GheeUnsalted butter or more neutral oil.
Storing and reheating
Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container within 2 hours of cooking and eat within 3 days. Reheat covered, with a sprinkle of water, in the microwave or in a covered pan over low heat until steaming hot throughout. The cooked mutton masala can be made a day ahead and refrigerated.
What to serve with mutton biryani
- Cucumber Raita
- Mirchi ka Salan
- Sliced onions with lemon and a pinch of salt
- Cucumber and tomato salad
Frequently asked questions
Is mutton goat or lamb?
It depends on where you are. In India and much of South Asia, mutton usually means goat meat. In the UK, Australia and New Zealand, mutton means meat from a mature sheep. This recipe uses goat.
How long does mutton take to cook for biryani?
Bone-in goat usually needs 1½–2 hours of gentle, covered simmering on the stovetop to become tender. A pressure cooker cuts this to roughly 25–30 minutes under pressure.
How do I make mutton soft for biryani?
Marinate it in yogurt for at least 2 hours (overnight is better), or for 2–4 hours with a little raw papaya paste, then cook it low and slow with the lid on until the meat pulls easily from the bone.
Where can I buy mutton for biryani in the US?
Look for goat at Indian, Pakistani, Middle Eastern or halal butchers, where it is often sold pre-cut into bone-in curry pieces. Some international supermarkets also carry frozen goat.
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